Crafting Excellence, Creativity, and Sustainability.
Mary Wing To is a multi-disciplined Master Artisan, a luminary in the world of craftsmanship, and a creative force that seamlessly intertwines drama, fashion, and art with an undeniable love for all things equine. The Leather Master & Whip-maker based in London, UK has not only been preserving but enhancing the age-old tradition of leather craftsmanship. Every creation is a testament to her commitment to innovation, pushing boundaries, and marrying traditional techniques with contemporary flair honing her skills to blend the classic and the avant-garde reflecting in each leather design and whip creation that bears her signature.
Early Years and Education
Hailing from Manchester, Mary's journey embarked as an apprentice bespoke coat maker on the prestigious Savile Row in London, where her innate talent for craftsmanship was first uncovered.
Driven by an unwavering commitment to her craft, Mary pursued higher education, earning a distinction in her Master of Arts degree in fashion design & technology at The London College of Fashion. It was during this time that her in-depth study of leathercraft and personal affinity for horses converged in the creation of her 2007 final M.A graduate collection, aptly named ‘A Horse Tail.’ This collection not only showcased her technical prowess but also revealed a unique and artistic interpretation of leatherwork. The experience ignited a passion that would shape the trajectory of her extraordinary career.
Mary's sculptural leather pieces from 'A Horse Tail' quickly garnered attention from the fashion world. Fashion stylists were captivated by the innovative designs merging leather craft, leading to features in numerous editorials including i-D Magazine who recognised her as one of London’s top five graduates to watch out for and a rising star in the industry.
Passion for Leather
Mary made a pivotal decision to delve deeper into her newfound passion for leatherwork. Recognizing the need to master the intricacies of the craft, she was awarded a scholarship bursary in 2008 from the Worshipful Company of Leathersellers. This financial help enabled her to pursue a City and Guilds Diploma in Traditional Saddlery Craftsmanship at Capel Manor College. Immersing herself in the practical work and literature of horses, including anatomy, Mary's commitment to excellence shone through. Despite being the only student who didn’t ride, she received accolades for her research and showcasing her dedication to understanding every facet of her craft and the horse.
Mary's natural aptitude for leather craftsmanship became increasingly evident during her two years of study. Her skills earned her first and premium prizes in National Saddlery and Leather Competitions, solidifying her reputation as an outstanding student. In 2009, her international acclaim reached new heights as she claimed the Best International Designer Award for a sculptural leather piece crafted for a competition in Holland.
In 2010, her exceptional fusion of fashion design and saddlery skill contributions to the craft earned her the esteemed City & Guilds National Lions Award for 'U.K Creative Craftsperson of the Year' and the City & Guilds Medal of Excellence Award, solidifying her status as a trailblazer in creative craftsmanship.
Royal Apprenticeship and Global Recognition
Undeterred in her pursuit of mastery, Mary succeeded in a unique opportunity and embarked on a four-year apprenticeship under the discerning eye of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II's Master Saddler within the Royal Mews at Buckingham Palace. This prestigious opportunity allowed her to delve into the intricate art of making, restoring, and preserving centuries-old harness and tack. Mary emerged from this immersive experience not only as a fully qualified City and Guilds harness maker but also as a recognised registered member of The Society of Master Saddlers, a testament to her dedication to preserving the highest standards of Saddlery craftsmanship.
In 2011, Mary's creative brilliance reached new heights as she entered and triumphed in both the International and Supreme Awards at The World of Wearable Art (W.O.W) competition in New Zealand. This historic win marked her as the first European ever to achieve such a feat. Her winning creation, 'Hylonome', an all-leather handcrafted masterpiece depicting a mythological female centaur, became a global sensation. The captivating artwork garnered headline news coverage worldwide, from Europe to the U.S., showcasing Mary's ability to transcend boundaries and captivate international audiences with her unparalleled craftsmanship.
Mary's artistry extended to the film industry, when she was commissioned by Fox Searchlight Pictures to crafting bespoke leather items for actress Carey Mulligan in the film 'Far From The Madding Crowd.'
This phase of Mary's journey exemplifies not only her technical mastery and artistic vision but also her determination to push the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship. From prestigious awards in the U.K. to apprenticing within the historic confines of Buckingham Palace and achieving international acclaim, Mary's story is one of unwavering dedication and a relentless pursuit of excellence in the realm of leather craftsmanship.
Sustainability and Honours
In 2012, Mary’s unwavering dedication to her craft and her profound influence on the industry were recognized through two prestigious honours. In acknowledgment of her inspiring journey and extensive wisdom in leather craftsmanship, Mary was bestowed with the Freedom of the City of London. This distinction not only symbolizes her commitment to her craft but also her standing as a respected figure within The City's artisanal community.
Further solidifying her place among esteemed craftsmen, Mary was honoured as a Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers in 2012, an acknowledgment granted by redemption. This distinction reflects not only her mastery of the craft but also her commitment to upholding the traditions of leatherwork and supporting the next generation of leather artisans.
Simultaneously, Mary's commitment to preserving endangered crafts led her to undertake the traditional craft of Whip Making. Awarded the QEST Scholarship and The Worshipful Company of Leathersellers bursary by the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust, she studied under one of the last master Whip Makers in the UK. Delving into century-old techniques, Mary meticulously crafted each whip from start to finish – from shaping the core to cutting and plaiting the leather lace, hand-stitching the hand-part and flapper, to finishing with a silver collar.
Upon the passing of her Master, Dennis Walmsley, Mary founded 'Whip in Hand' in his honour. This venture is not merely a craft endeavour but a heartfelt commitment to ensuring that centuries-old traditions of whip making continue on. Through 'Whip in Hand,' Mary strives to educate and pass on the invaluable skills she acquired, ensuring the craft remains vibrant and alive.
Mary's creations, borne out of a dedication to tradition and craftsmanship, have found their way into the hands of notable clientele, including Charlotte Dujardin CBE, the British multiple World and Olympic Champion dressage rider and Nick Skelton CBE British Olympic show jumper. This recognition is a testament to the timeless appeal and quality of Mary's work, which continues to leave an indelible mark on the world of leather craftsmanship.
She continued her legacy with iconic projects, including sculpting a leather horse head statue for the 60th anniversary of Queen Elizabeth II's Coronation.
Championing Tradition & Luxury
In 2013, Mary joined Chanel as the brands first U.K Leather Artisan developing their first Aftersales Atelier in London. Leading to its success over the past decade has been a journey of innovation, growth, and unwavering commitment to sustainability, fashion circularity and exceptional client care and quality. From the initial setup to its current thriving structure, the initiative paved the way for the establishment of 14 workshops globally, contributing to the successful launch of the ‘Chanel et Moi’ brand strategy and the recent Les Atelier. During her tenure she continued to seek innovative ways to bridge the gap between consumers and products. Lead-times were significantly reduced from 90 days to an impressive 30 days, accompanied by a remarkable increase in the local repair rate to 91% and reducing carbon foot emissions. She played a pivotal role in training the USA team upon the opening of their LASD. Her responsibilities spanned across the deployment of repair and restoration services for all product categories, operational management, and ensuring the highest level of craftsmanship and quality control. Her connections and ability to liaise with suppliers to build strategic business relationships, ensured a continued supply of materials and tools essential for the Atelier's success.
Mary’s strategic initiatives included executing risk assessments, training and development of a team of artisans and conducting research and development into techniques, quality, and tools to elevate repair services. She took initiative to design and develop a repair tool that gained approval and adoption across all Chanel repair centres and manufacturers globally. Notably, her sustainable innovation efforts led to the initiation of the 'recycled art project,' utilizing old spare parts to create art and align with the brand's sustainability goals. Additionally, she demonstrated initiative by developing a repair training program delivered to boutique Aftersales representatives which, not only enhanced their skillsets but also elevated the overall client aftercare experience.
Overall, her leadership has been instrumental in establishing the Chanel Fashion Aftersales Atelier in the UK as a beacon of excellence, meeting global KPI targets, and setting a standard for innovation, sustainability, and client-centric care in the luxury fashion industry.
Global Recognition and Advocacy
In 2019, Mary received a prestigious invitation to join the Michelangelo Foundation for Creativity and Craftsmanship. The Geneva-based non-profit organization is dedicated to celebrating and preserving the art of master craftsmanship while fortifying its connection to the world of design. Her inclusion in the Homo Faber Guide, a unique digital platform showcasing the best craftsmanship across Europe, underscored her status as a master artisan.
The recognition continued in 2022 when Mary was chosen by The Queen Elisabeth Scholarship Trust (QEST) to represent the UK at the Homo Faber exhibition titled 'Crafting a More Human Future' in Venice. This distinguished event ran alongside the Biennale, attracting attention from art enthusiasts globally. Mary's participation in the exhibition involved a week of demonstrating her whip-making skills and engaging with a diverse audience. This unique event celebrated the finest crafts with a special focus on Japanese living treasures and featured some of the world's most renowned luxury brands in fashion, watches & fine jewellery. Mary was further profiled in an interview for ‘Dazed and Confused’ magazine, in regards to the exhibition.
The year brought Mary further acclaim as she was spotlighted in the publication 'Craft Britain: Why Making Matters.' Authored by acclaimed design writer Helen Chislett and renowned crafts enthusiast David Linley (Earl of Snowdon), the publication celebrated Britain's rich tapestry of artists and makers who are dedicated to preserving, mastering, and challenging craft traditions. Mary's feature highlighted not only her individual achievements but also her significant contribution to the broader narrative of craftsmanship in the UK.
These accolades, spanning prestigious organizations, international exhibitions, and renowned publications, underscore Mary's exceptional talent and her pivotal role in the preservation and advancement of traditional craftsmanship on a global scale. Her journey continues to inspire and shape the landscape of contemporary craftsmanship.
Mary has become a prominent figure, and is frequently invited to exhibit and demonstrate her leather and whip craft at prestigious events. These include noteworthy occasions such as The Royal Windsor Horse Show, Christie's Auctions, Fortnum and Mason exhibitions, and engagements with the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A).
Mary’s impact extends beyond her creations. She stands as a guardian of tradition, a champion for sustainability, and an artist whose work transcends boundaries, continually shaping the narrative of craftsmanship and creativity in the luxury world.
